The most common hinge used in frameless cabinets is the cup hinge, or concealed hinge.

The hinge cup is inserted into a 35 mm hole, with the edge of the hole generally 3 mm from the door edge.

The mounting plate is fixed to the carcase, and the hinge arm is slid over the plate and locked into position.

Most workshops use a patented boring machine made by the hinge manufacturer, or a drill press that has been set up for the job.

Adjusting the door

This drawing shows a typical concealed hinge with the door in an open position.

The functions of the screws are as follows:

A: fixed door screws - used to permanently fix the hinge cup to the door.

B: adjustable cabinet screws - fix the mounting block to the inside of the cabinet, and allow the doors to be adjusted vertically (up and down).

C: locking screw - used to lock the arm in place once any sideways adjustments have been made (note that it needs to be loosened before screw D can be turned)

D: adjusting screw - used to adjust the door horizontally (from side to side).

To increase or decrease the gap at the side of the door, turn screw D in the same direction on both hinges for the door.

The finished gap should be about 1-2 mm.

To adjust the angle of the door, turn screw D on either the top or bottom hinge, or if you need a bigger adjustment, turn the top screw one way and the bottom screw the other way.

If the door is binding (that is, touching the cabinet side as it closes), loosen the locking screw C on both hinges and slide the door outwards, away from the cabinet.

Retighten the screws and check to see whether it has fixed the bind.

Note that the gap only needs to be 1 mm between the door and the cabinet.

To adjust the height of the door, loosen the mounting block screws for both hinges (screw B) and move the door up or down.

In most cases, the cabinet door should be flush with the bottom of the cabinet and down about 4 mm from the top.