Finishing to the wall
This gives you a bit of leeway with the measurements while you're positioning and levelling the cabinet.
It also lets you scribe and re-cut the filler if it turns out that the wall isn't plumb or there is a hollow or curve in the wall.
Out-of-plumb walls
The process for scribing and recutting a filler piece to match the deviations in a wall is much the same as for scribing templates and larger panels. We've talked about this process in the lesson: 'Templates' from the unit Checking fit of cabinets. The process of recutting or shaping a piece is covered in the lesson: 'Panels and bench tops' from the unit Adjusting cabinets on-site.
Note that the cabinet itself will need to have a reduced depth so that the wall deviations don't push the cabinet forward.
This photo shows a cabinet set in 200 mm from the wall, with a scribed end panel.
Just remember that if you're using this technique, you need to make allowance for the extra board thickness (generally 16 mm).
Cornices
If you're installing wall cabinets that go right to the ceiling, you may find that you need to scribe around a cornice. In this instance, it's often easiest to use a pair of dividers to draw the shape. The profile line can either be scribed onto a template or directly onto the panel itself. Make sure you keep the dividers horizontal so that the line stays exactly parallel at all times.
Learning activity
Audio 8 (mp3 |6|KB)We've talked about using dividers to scribe the profile of a fancy cornice. But there are other tools available, such as a profile gauge, which can be used to transfer very detailed shapes across to a panel.
Have you ever seen or used a profile gauge? If not, ask your supervisor or work colleagues if they can show you one and demonstrate how it works.